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Hibiscus

GT314

HIBISCUS
HUMBER NURSERIES "GREEN THUMBS GUIDES"

 

Hibiscus, as an indoor flowering plant, has quickly become one of Ontario’s leading crops due to its extensive varieties, easiness to grow and flower profusely, and because it can be used outdoors as a container plant, during the summer months, where it will produce and abundance of blooms continually.

WATERING


Hibiscus need to dry out moderately between good waterings and prefer growing in clay pots where soil can dry out uniformly.

FERTILIZING


Regular applications of 20-20-20 fertilizer at every 4 – 6 week intervals and 15-30-15 fertilizer every alternate feeding will keep your Hibiscus lush, green and full of constantly new flower buds/blooms.

PESTS/DISEASES


While Hibiscus are generally maintenance free, they are prone to both Spider Mite and Aphids. Regular bi-weekly applications of “SAFERS” house plant spray or “SCHULTZ” indoor spray will keep the plants insect free. The only disease is “CANE ROT” which occurs when plants have been exposed to excess water for long periods of time.

SOME SAMPLE VARIETIES


BRIDE: Large, single pale blush flower

BRILLIANT: Single, bright flowers, very vigorous

DIAMOND HEAD: Double deep red flowers

HULA GIRL: Large single flowers with red centre

KONA: Ruffled double pink flowers

ROSS ESTEY: Single pink/coral flowers


REPOTTING



Generally Hibiscus prefer “SLIGHTLY” root bound pots so as to encourage more flower buds. When the roots over crowd the pot and your Hibiscus requires repotting, choose a pot only one size up from the existing one (preferably clay). A fairly light soil mix (or soil-less mix i.e. Pro-Mix) is best to encourage lots of new roots to develop. Also, use a transplanter fertilizer (5-15-5) to promote new root growth.

 

REGULAR CARE


Hibiscus do best in a sunny location, (South or West) when grown inside with temperatures 18-200C (68-720F). When grown outdoors they are best in a bright or sunny location but take extra care to not allow the roots to dry out. A 2” layer of mulch on top of the soil will keep the soil cool and damp on a patio or deck location.

When bringing your Hibiscus indoors at the end of the summer, prune about 1/3 to1/2 the growth off and remove any old stems. This will encourage new shoots for indoor growing. Be sure to spray for insects before bringing the plant inside with “SAFERS” Insect Spray and also with Fungus Gnat Control for soil insects.

To propagate your Hibiscus, take a young shoot about 2 – 3” in length with 2 leaves and dip into Stim Root Rooting Powder #2. Place in a pot with sand or vermiculite and keep moist and humid till roots appear in approximately 6 weeks. (See diagram). Your new transplant seedling can be potted into a 3 '“or 4'”pot, using “Pro-Mix” as the soil and can be enjoyed for years to come.

Hibiscus, native to the Southern Pacific, yet adaptable to any Ontario home will be one house-plant you’ll never tire of, and one which will give you years of tropical enjoyment.

PROPAGATING PLANTS FROM CUTTINGS


1. To root a stem cutting, first fill a 4 to 5 inch pot with moist potting mixture and scoop out a hole in the centre 1 inch across and 1 ½ inches deep. Fill the hole one third full of a moist mix of peat moss and coarse sand, or sand alone. As new roots form and grow they will spread out into the potting mix to seek nutrients, making transplanting unnecessary.

2. Take a cutting up to 6 inches long from the top of a stem, slicing diagonally with a sharp knife or razor blade just below a leaf joint.


3. Hold the cutting gently as you strip off the lower leaves and also remove any flowers or flower buds. Moisten the cut end, dip it in rooting powder to stimulate the growth of new roots and shake off any excess powder.

4. The cut end is inserted in the rooting medium in the hole, which is then filled to the top with more of the same mixture and tamped firm with the forefinger. Make sure that the stem is in the center, that it remains upright and that the lowest leaves do not touch the soil surface, or they may rot.


5. Cover the plant and the pot with a clear plastic food bag propped up on stakes. This holds in moisture and keep the humidity high. Set the plant in a well-lighted location but not in direct sun, which could burn the leaves.
6. When new growth has sprouted and become established, you will know that roots have formed. Before removing the bag, loosen it for two or three days so the new plant will not be shocked by a sudden change in conditions. Then place it in a suitable location and give it normal care.